Massimo Tosoni strolls amidst his vineyards, the neat rows extending like green ribbons under a scorching sun. In the background, Tarquinia town rests on a hill once governed by the ancient Etruscans.
He points to the vineyard rows, emphasizing the arid and rigid soil, drained of life by the relentless sun. Italy’s vineyards, mirroring global trends, face challenges of prolonged hot summers, unpredictable weather patterns, and diminishing water sources.
These changing conditions compel winemakers to reconsider a fundamental aspect of winemaking, terroir, the intricate blend of soil, sun, wind, rain, and human interaction that imparts a distinctive taste and essence to each wine.
Research indicates that if global temperatures surge by over 2 degrees Celsius by the end of the century, a substantial portion of Italy’s lowland and coastal wine regions, approximately one-third of the country’s viticultural land, may no longer be conducive for grape cultivation, a scenario applicable to many global vineyards as well.
Italy, a leading global wine producer with a $20.7 billion industry, constituting 10% of the nation’s agri-food economy, faced climate-induced challenges even amidst record export figures of $12 billion in 2024, prior to the imposition of U.S. tariffs.
In northern Lazio, an area near Rome contributing 3% of Italy’s wine production, Massimo Tosoni and his daughter, Martina Tosoni, are among numerous producers adapting to the evolving climate. Their harvesting season has shifted due to climate change, resulting in a loss of a third of their harvest in the previous year.
Neighboring producers are transitioning from indigenous red grape varieties like Sangiovese and Montepulciano to the heat-tolerant Syrah, previously cultivated mainly in Sicily. Martina underscores that water scarcity, rather than heat, poses the most significant threat now, emphasizing the importance of water-efficient practices.
Technological advancements like irrigation rotations and efficient water management systems are being embraced by younger growers like Martina, who are also adept at leveraging digital tools for vineyard management. Traditional techniques like grafting local grapes onto wild vines are proving resilient in the face of changing climatic conditions.
Collaboration within the community is seen as vital for survival and growth. Martina and local producers are establishing consortia to enhance marketing and wine tourism initiatives collectively. Kimberly Nicholas, a sustainability scientist, stresses the urgency for the wine industry to adapt to climate change, with vineyards witnessing earlier grape ripening, altering wine characteristics.
Innovative vineyard strategies like shade cloths, optimized trellising, and experimenting with solar panels are being explored to combat the impact of climate change. The notion of expanding wine production in northern regions is challenged, emphasizing the need for diversifying grape varieties to accelerate ripening in a warmer climate.
In Tuscany, Lamberto Frescobaldi, from a family with a 700-year wine-making legacy, views the changing landscape as an opportunity for intelligent adaptation. Water conservation measures, like reservoir construction and vineyard placement optimization, are being prioritized to sustain vine growth.
While these adaptations disrupt age-old traditions and strain the regulatory frameworks governing wine production, they are deemed necessary for the industry’s resilience in the face of climate change. The evolving scenario signals an inevitable shift in wine styles and traditions, prompting reflection on the disappearing essence of certain flavors from the Earth.
