Venice, renowned for its timeless allure, features ancient palazzos mirrored in meandering canals, where water dictates the daily pace of life. Despite its charm, the city faces a tourism influx, with over 25 million visitors mostly being day-trippers who flock to iconic spots like Piazza San Marco for quick snapshots and gondola rides.
Away from the bustling square, a serene ambiance prevails. Female rowers gracefully maneuver a traditional Venetian boat called a “batèla a coa de gambero,” designed for practicality rather than luxury. Unlike the elegant gondolas, these sturdy vessels were historically used for transporting goods and people through the city’s shallow canals.
Elena Almansi, a native Venetian and accomplished rower, is a pivotal figure in Row Venice, a non-profit organization dedicated to preserving the unique Venetian rowing style. The group, comprising about two dozen members, imparts lessons in the traditional art of rowing to both tourists and local enthusiasts.
The Venetian rowing technique, known as “voga alla veneta,” involves rowers standing facing forward and propelling the boat with a single oar in a fluid figure-eight motion. Despite its graceful appearance, mastering this method requires skill and practice.
Row Venice faced initial opposition from traditionalists when it began, but through perseverance, the group has flourished. They have restored rare batela replicas and advocated for gender equality in rowing competitions, leading to equal prize money for women competitors.
Viola Ghigi, a young rower from a long line of Venetian rowers, represents the new generation dedicated to upholding the city’s rowing heritage. For Ghigi and her fellow rowers, rowing is not just a pastime but an integral part of their identity that contributes to preserving Venice’s authenticity amidst the challenges posed by mass tourism.
In a city grappling with depopulation and overtourism, the women of Row Venice stand as guardians of a fading tradition. They do not view themselves as competitors to the licensed gondoliers but as custodians of a craft and a legacy that transcends mere transportation.
Recognized by Italy’s national Olympic committee, Row Venice’s instructors reinvest lesson profits to support female racers, ensuring their visibility in a male-dominated tradition. As Almansi guides the batela through the tranquil waters, these women symbolize movement and progress in a city often criticized for being stagnant.